Monday 18 April 2011

My awkward tan...

Mombasa sits about 100 miles south of the equator so the sun is very strong.  Much stronger than I ever anticipated...


My first week here, I underestimated the power of the sun.  I walked around the beach for just an hour with no shirt and with a backpack on.  It resulted in a very awkward tan.  There is a long, square patch of skin that is pale white starting at the shoulders going to my armpits.  It didn't help that my anti-malarial medication makes me super sensitive to the sun.  It's been several months and the tan lines are as strong as ever (my camera isn't very good so the tan lines don't stand out as much as they do in real life).

Friday 15 April 2011

Bay-baaay!

My host mother, Maureen, finally had her baby last Tuesday!  


Little baby Taliah all curled up in her blanket.  She was 2 days over due and I think my host mother was more than relieved to have her baby after 9 very long months.  I think being pregnant is very difficult, but I think the heat in Mombasa makes it even more difficult.


My host parents in the hospital with the new baby!  On the left, holding baby Taliah, is my beautiful host mother Maureen and on her right is my awesome host father Kenn.  


The power cord for the TV.  Wires exposed.  Even in the maternity ward, safety is not a major concern in Kenya.  Safety last...I guess.

Water Shortage!

There is a water shortage in Kenya.  Even though its supposed to be the rainy season, it has rained 2 days in the past 3 weeks causing a major drought.   


This sign was posted right by the entrance gate of my neighborhood.  We currently have no water for the second time in the past month.  It is extremely inconvenient.  I have not showered for days.  Luckily, there are a lot of resorts in Mombasa.  If I get a little dirty I just go take a dip in one of their pools.

What puzzles me about the water shortage is is that Mombasa is right on the ocean.  I don't see why there should be a water shortage when the entire city is surrounded by water...

Friday 8 April 2011

Kenya's Finest...



Hard at work.  Security at its finest.  This man is guarding millions upon millions of shillings at a bank.  


Facial close-up.

Saturday 2 April 2011

African Time!

One of the most frustrating things during my trip to Kenya has been getting used to "African Time".  African Time is what people here call being extremely late to an event.  When someone is extremely late (like 1 to 2 hours late) to an event, they say, "Oh I was running on African Time.  It's ok.  I'm on time."

I recently held a several day accounting workshop and while maybe one person may show up on time, 30% of the people will show up at least 30 minutes late with the majority of the people showing up an hour late.  Every class session had to start with a lecture on how to be on time.  I am chronically late in the US, but I'm only usually 10 minutes late.  I usually feel awful when I'm 10 minutes late.  The bright side is that the people here make me look great!  

Many times when I set an appointment with the natives, I have to verify whether the schedule was set according to African Time or Mzungu (white person) Time.  If I don't verify that it is Mzungu time, most people will show up an hour late or not at all. 

Here are some great examples of African Time:  


Here, the lovely Olivia points to clocks hanging up in her host family's living room.  Olivia is an intern in microfinance who is from Miami and will be getting her MBA starting in September.  As you can see, the clocks, which are hanging across from each other show different times.  These photos were taken within seconds of each other.  I've learned if clocks, even in the middle of downtown Mombasa, here are within 20 minutes of each other it is huge accomplishment.



Even cell phone times don't match.  My cell phone on the right reads 12:58, while the cell phone on the left reads 11:59 (no, Kenya is not large enough to have several time zones and the cell phones are not sitting amazingly between 2 time zones).  The REAL time, which I verified online through www.time.gov, was 11:45.  We were both wrong...


GASP!!!  THE CLOCKS ARE ONLY 4 MINUTES APART!!!  My cell phone on the right reads 5:01 and the cell phone on the left reads 4:57.


This watch doesn't work.  Many Kenyans wear watches that don't work.  Many people also proudly display clocks that don't work in their homes and businesses as well.  Maybe if the watches and clocks DID work, people would be on time...

Friday 1 April 2011

Safari!

Along with my trip to the Maasai village, I went on a safari to Maasai Mara, a very famous national park.  According to my lonely planet guide, Maasai Mara is the best place to go on safari.  We talked to our Swahili teacher Ana, who also owns a travel company, and she organized a trip for us.


The beginning of the trip.  We had to take an 8 hour overnight bus from Mombasa to Nairobi.  I slept through the entire trip.  Amazingly, I slept through the part where the regular road ended and we had to go off-roading in the large coach bus (a road connecting the 2 biggest cities in Kenya, astonishingly, doesn't exist, the funds to build the road instead goes to fund Kenya's president's luxury golf weekends).   All the other interns that came along on the safari didn't sleep a single minute.  The best part of the bus was that it had air conditioning.  NOWHERE else in Kenya has A/C.

My host father later said the midnight bus to Nairobi is hijacked pretty often.  When we asked Ana about whether the bus was safe, her response was, "Safe. Very safe," with a huge smile.  After all the super sketchy experiences we've had with Anna, I am starting to trust her less and less.


This is our safari van.  Once we got to Nairobi, we had to change from a coach bus to a safari van.  We spent a lot of time in this thing.


The highway to the safari from Nairobi was the worst road (this is again due to the local politicians channeling funds for road construction for their own personal entertainment fund-this is a very common theme in Africa in general) I ever traveled on.  The distance from Nairobi to Maasai Mara was only about 90 miles, but it took 4 hours because we could only go 30 mph and we made many stops for the Maasai cow herds crossing the highway.  The highway was only largest enough for one car and there were many potholes so we were forced to drive on the shoulder for most of the trip.  My butt was extremely sore after the weekend. 

We would also see local Maasai along the road filling the potholes with dirt and then holding out their hand for money. 


We stopped to gaze at the Great Rift Valley (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Rift_Valley).  This valley runs from Syria all the way to Mozambique and it is the valley where humans supposedly came from.  Some of the oldest ancestors of humans such as "Lucy" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucy_(Australopithecus)) have been found in this valley.  Knowing this, there was an incredibly eerie feeling being in the valley. 


Wildebeests grazing on some grass.  These were the first animals we saw once we entered into Maasai Mara National Park.


An impala chilling in the shade to get away from the afternoon sun.  


Zebras.


Lions eating the zebras.


People watching the lions eating the zebras.


A water buffalo.  This guy was huge.  In Kenya there are the big 5 animals that are a must see on safari.  This is one of the big 5.  The other four animals are the lion, elephant, rhinoceros, and leopard.  At first everybody thought the water buffalo should probably not be apart of the big 5, but after seeing the enormous size of the thing, we all agreed that this should be a part of the big 5.  


Water buffalo testicles.  These were massive.  These things alone justified the water buffalo being included in the big 5.  In Swahili large testicles are called makende.  We had a photo contest among the interns to see who could take the best testicle photo.  This one won by a vote of 5 to 1.  It was taken by Tyler, the intern from Washington D.C. 


Giraffe grazing on some grass.


Giraffe testicle shot.  In Swahili these would be called vikende, which means small testicles.


A picture of the interns with our tour guide, Ana.  This stone statue marks the border between Kenya and Tanzania.  In Tanzania Maasai Mara is called the Serengeti.  I think the Serengeti is much better known in the U.S. largely in part to the immensely popular 80's song "Africa" by Toto.


Wild ostriches prancing along the savanna. 


Hippos!  These guys were super gigantic.  Hippos are considered the most dangerous animal to humans in Maasai Mara.  More than the lion, leopard, cheetah, and the alligator the hippo kills the most humans.  They will charge at humans and though these guys are fat, they can run like 25 mph.  Although they are vegetarian, they are known to bite humans.  When I mean bite, they put you into their mouth and bite you into half and then just leave you there for the vultures and hyenas to eat you.

Our guide Ana (this is back when we didn't realize how unsafe she was) thought it would be good to do a walking safari to see the hippos...


Our guide for our walking safari, Jack.  He had an AK-47.  He let me hold it.  People told me I looked too happy to be threatening even when I was holding an AK.

In the background to the right is Ana, our guide, running away.  When Jack handed me the gun, I almost dropped it causing a little scare.  Ana would have been right in the line of fire.  Luckily the safety was on...


The crocodile.  We saw this guy during the walking safari.  He was the biggest animal I have ever seen including the elephants we saw.  He was like twice the size of a hippo.  HUGE!!!!!!  This part of the walking safari was the only time Jack took the safety off of his AK.


A baby elephant and his mother.  We were within 10 feet of these beasts.  These elephants were not as big as I thought they would be, but they were still huge and would easily destroy our van.  Elephants used to be a major problem for people on safari, even more than the hippos.  Elephants never supposedly forget, and when they saw humans they associated them with poachers so they would charge after humans.  These new generation of elephants grew up in a world where poaching was illegal so they are much more gentler towards us humans.  


Inside the safari van with some of the other interns. 


This is a sausage tree.  It had really large sacks of I don't know what that looked like sausages hanging from its tree branches.  It was one of the more unusual trees I have ever seen.


This little guy snuck in and stole this banana from one of our lunches.  He was super sneaky.  


Cheetah!


It is not a very good picture but this is a leopard.  It was up in a tree resting after having a huge meal of a wildebeest.  The bloody wildebeest carcass was dangling from the tree below.  Our tour guide said that leopards are very rare and we were very lucky to have seen a leopard.


Maasai Mara at dusk.  People say the savannas of Kenya are beautiful, but I have to disagree.  It's extremely dry, nothing is really growing there except for this really dry grass and there is a ton of animal poop everywhere.  


The end of the safari.  We saw a hyena walking around at dusk.  He was looking for some scraps of the zebras the lions were eating at the beginning of the safari.  The following day we went to visit the Maasai village.